Book Review: Lost on Planet China by J. Maarten Troost

I originally read this book when it was released in hardcover back in 2008, but seeing the softcover version on a display last weekend at Barnes & Noble triggered me to go back and revisit it. I remember liking the book the first time through; how would it hold up?

Troost - who’s been published in the Atlantic Monthly and the Washington Post - doesn’t want to be called a “travel writer”, as his other books about exotic locales were written after living for extended periods among regular citizens in places like Vanuatu and Eastern Europe. While ‘ethnography’ might be a more-appropriate word for his other two books, here this books’ entire premise is Maarten traveling from place to place in China over several months, having wacky adventures, and writing a small essay about it. That’s a travelogue, and because he visited a different city each week he just doesn’t achieve the depth of cultural understanding found in his other works.

I’m not knocking the approach; if a publishing company wanted to make me an offer like that I’d jump immediately. (I even have an itinerary sketched out, and essay outlines for all the other parts of weninchina.com.) But then again I’m not trying to write a humor book or a picture of a people in transition.

Now, having read through the book again, I’ll still say it’s a fast-paced, fun, light read. There are 24 chapters, but the tone Troost uses is dry and conversational and one could finish the whole book in less than a week of evenings after the kids have gone to bed.

Looking over the notes I took, however, gives me the idea to make a Chinese Travel Channel Special Bingo - Troost hits all the obligatory observations and statements you’ve seen in every documentary and guidebook. Here are my entries for Chapters 2 and 3:

• Crazy driving / astonishing traffic
• Children peeing in inappropriate places in public areas
• Food made of animal bits we don’t eat in the West anymore
• The Cultural Revolution was really evil
• Blowing Noses
• Crossing the street is dangerous
• Chairman Mao
• Crazy ads on TV
• Luxury goods on ostentatious display
• June 4 is a mystery for Generation Y
• Smog in Beijing / dust storms

He circles all the way around the country, out through Shaanxi and Sichuan onto Tibet, then down through Yunnan to Guangzhou, up through the Yangtze Delta and finally into the northeast, ending with a boat ride along the Yalu River at the North Korean border, wishing to go back to the States.

I have to compare this book now to Kosher Chinese reviewed in an earlier entry. Both books are alternatingly funny and poignant, both are light reading, but Lost could have been Kosher if Troost had stayed put in one place for a couple months instead of taking the Grand Tour and hanging out with other Westerners. Take for instance how each author covers the gap between Han and non-Han ethnicities: Lost shows the absurd ‘surface’ of Han tourists in Yunnan having fun looking at Westerners interact with Bai people, whereas Kosher follows several young hill-tribe girls in Guiyang over two years, gets to know them and shows how the cards are stacked against them even though they keep trying. Both stories are true, but the latter one really helps you learn about what’s actually going on.

A book of just ‘surface’ observations can be fun, but too much at one place starts to feel like snarking, even though the author has only good intentions. Lost on Planet China is ultimately a highlight reel; a spice to add to your reading meal - entertaining in controlled doses, and with a balanced diet of other China media - but not a standalone dish.

For additional media and product reviews about China, its culture, and traveling around Asia, visit http://www.weninchina.com/Reviews/Reviews/Reviews.html

Now things start getting interesting!

After years of waiting, we are now finally at the beginning of a major expansion of flying between the USA and China, and this is going to be great news for family travel!

American Airlines will be entering the Los Angeles - Shanghai market in April 2011, which will help keep a lid on fares.

The bigger news is a set of new routes Delta will be launching from April through July 2011:  Atlanta - Shanghai, Detroit - Beijing, and most importantly for adoptive families, the return of Tokyo - Guangzhou service!

The Guangzhou flight will be operated by a Boeing 767-300, which is a much larger airplane than the 757-200 that predecessor Northwest Airlines used up to 2009.  That should also make seats more available and likewise keep fares out of Guangzhou from getting out of control.

As schedules start to load, we'll be updating our Transpacific Flight Planning page with fresh details.

China Southern Airlines' Guangzhou-Los Angeles nonstop: comments

Looking at the map, the only nonstop service from Guangzhou to the USA would seem to be the simplest choice for returning adoptive families. No intermediate connections, no ground travel to Hong Kong, no worries about your child’s visa and passport status.

Comments on other blogs recommend the inflight service on China Southern’s long-range flights (compared favorably to other Asian carriers – which means several steps up from US-based airlines, even in economy class…). You earn Delta SkyMiles and can even book the entire trip through Delta.

So, why hasn’t this flight been the automatic choice?

For many years, the flight ran only 4 days per week – which meant extra days spent on Shamian Island if your consular appointment didn’t mesh with the flight. With the Spring 2010 schedule, however, they’ve added a fifth day, so we will see if the added convenience translates into more business.

The flight arrives Los Angeles at 7 pm. After getting through Customs, most of the same-day connections to US cities have long gone, with only a few late, late night departures to the East Coast and some Midwest airports available. The LAX website says the China Southern flight averages a delay of 27 minutes (18% of the flights are delayed by more than an hour.) If your connection is missed, then you’ll have to find a hotel room in L.A. on very short notice, and that’s a hassle you’d like to avoid at all costs on this trip.

Arrival at LAX is at the Tom Bradley International Terminal, an experience regarded neither as smooth nor particularly friendly. Waits can be long, especially when there are numerous arriving flights – and there are plenty of Mexican flights arriving at 7 pm.  Also, the multiple-terminal arrangement makes it a hassle to move your bags and family – especially after a long haul – and after sunset.

 We’d like to offer some suggestions to China Southern and Delta:

• Move the departure time from Guangzhou up by 2 to 3 hours, allowing an arrival at LAX in the 4 pm – 5 pm range. This would open up connections to the entire West Coast, as well as permit Mountain Time Zone families to make the dinnertime flight to Delta’s Salt Lake City hub, where they could catch the last bank of flights to their hometowns.
• Departure from LAX could be moved up a bit as well without affecting potential connections. The arrival at Guangzhou would be earlier as well – around 5 am – but this would give families ample time to clear Chinese Customs, freshen up and stretch their legs, and have a good meal before continuing on to their adoption cities.  The China Southern Boeing 777-200 that operates this flight would have enough time to operate a turn to Beijing and back before heading out to L.A. again.
• As the economy begins to improve, be ready to add Monday and Thursday frequencies to make this a real daily service. SkyTeam won’t be able to make Guangzhou a genuinely competitive East Asian hub without strong frequency on key routes – in sharp contrast to Hong Kong and Cathay Pacific’s double-daily and triple-daily nonstops to L.A., San Francisco, Vancouver, etc.  Mainland carriers have to allocate their aircraft and staff less efficiently than we’d care for, and operate some routes for purely political reasons, but they still have to make some profit – and that comes from long-range routes to major business centers.

For the full discussion of all your Transpacific options, check our flight planning article at weninchina.com. We'll be posting another update there soon to reflect the Summer 2010 flight schedules.


(Photo courtesy Phinalanji via Flickr, Creative Commons 2.0 license)

40 articles and counting!

Like a bowl of Shanghai-style beef noodle soup, weninchina.com aims to be filling, nutritious, and something you want to have available every day.

We've just published our 40th article about the China travel experience for families. Unlike the traditional travel guidebooks, which are organized around the various regions of China, we realize each family's timeline and itinerary is different. So we've set up our website more like a Dim Sum cart - pick what you're interested in and swing back for more when you're ready.

We've organized information into categories that apply wherever you land:

Lodging - including links to many of the most commonly-used hotels for adoptive families. Most of you will not be staying in well-known Western chains. There are important differences between a Chinese "5-star" hotel and what we would call "5 stars."

• Space - what you should expect about the layout of your hotel room
• Bathrooms
• the Beds - they aren't like hotel beds back home
• Cribs
• Electrical Outlets and Converters - not every region in China uses the same kind of plug, and the outlets are difficult to find in your hotel room
• Light Switches - quite possibly the first minor annoyance you'll encounter in the country. Yes, the switch in your hotel room does not work like you'd expect it to...
• the Breakfast Buffet - the only meal you know will be coming at a consistent time. Here's how to make the most of it.
• your hotel room's mini refrigerator - it's the same appliance, but there's something you don't know...
• your Room Safe - a must-use tool

Food - it's good, and for the most part, inexpensive.

• Chopsticks - yes, you need to learn how to use them
• KFC / Pizza Hut - these Western chains have made interesting adaptations for Chinese tastes, and should be on your list of things to try. There's no need to be afraid of ordering at the counter for yourself!
• Starbucks - because we can't live without good coffee, and you won't find any at your hotel
• Congee - it's what your child is eating; you should know what it's about

Travel and Tourism - advice about getting there, getting around, and getting home.

• Planning your Transpacific flights - more difficult since you have to leave from Guangzhou. We list and discuss several options
• Tokyo Narita Airport - a quick overview of where many of you will connect through
• Chinese Domestic Flights - what to expect as you move around the country
• Departing China - baggage strategy, getting through Guangzhou Baiyun airport, and what to expect for security
• Preparation for coming home - dealing with jetlag, relatives, and re-integrating into your 'normal' life. Includes a checklist of things you'll need to have done or arranged for before you leave for China.
• Shamian Island - the adoptive parents' refuge in Guangzhou. Includes a downloadable map to use when walking around.
• Traffic in China - amazing and hair-raising
• Passport & Money Holders

Money and Shopping - never enough of the former, never enough time for the latter...

• Money Basics - what the bills and coins look like, what to call them. China is very much a cash-based society, and you'll be using this knowledge every day.
• How to Exchange Currency - you'll be carrying a lot of it; here's where to go and how the process works
• Shopping for Groceries - a great and inexpensive way to get to know the Real China, not just the touristy stuff. It's something you can do on your own - and endlessly entertaining.
• Olympic Souvenirs - while a little outdated, still a good read concerning knockoff goods and how to determine what is authentic merchandise

Safety and Health - to supplement what your doctor or travel clinic has prepared you for

• Baby Formula Advisory - current information and government links regarding the tainted milk scandal of 2008
• Problems with Time Zones - jetlag when arriving in China isn't as much of a problem as that the local time zone doesn't fit the day/night cycle well
• "China Colon Syndrome" - will happen to you. Here's some help on how to deal with it.
• Spraying for Bugs - be aware, be prepared
• Physical Preparation for your trip - ideas on how to get ready for your two weeks away from the normal routine
• Crossing the Street - if you think the traffic is crazy when you're in a vehicle, then consider what it means for you as you walk around!
• Dealing with the Smog - when you encounter it, you'll remember it always. Here are some ideas on how to get through it until your next city.
• Email and Internet Monitoring - you may encounter some frustration, but it's not personal.

People and Culture - explaining some of the things you'll see on your trip, and ideas for back home

• Karaoke - is a huge industry in China. You might or might not get roped into it...
• Umbrellas - are used for more than rainshowers. If you want to fit in quickly, here's a good idea.
• Boats on the Pearl River - Guangzhou is a busy port with lots of traffic, and Shamian Island is a perfect spot to watch it from.
• Lucky Fish - why do Chinese have pictures and hangings of fish everywhere?
• the China Daily newspaper - your nightly reading assignment
• Chinese TV stations - in this case, watching TV can be considered to be 'good for you', and we do heartily recommend it!
• Chinese Learning Resources - for you and your children to use "back home". We profile and recommend several publishers and book distributors.

We hope to see you soon, and invite your comments, questions, and suggestions at weninchinainfo@mac.com. 

New postings at weninchina.com

We continue to add features to help families plan for their trips to China. Our new postings in the past month include:

• Connecting through Tokyo's Narita Airport
• Suggestions for physical training before your journey
• Practical advice about crossing the street in China
• A brief history / photo essay about Guangzhou's Shamian Island, plus a printable map to use during your visit.

weninchina.com now offers 35 entries about the family travel experience, in the areas of lodging, food, travel / tourism, money / shopping, safety / health, and people / culture. Our site also presents helpful tools including weather forecasts, currency calculators, and a wealth of links to travel and cultural resources.