Takeshita Dori in Harajuku, Tokyo

Another delightful video walk-through in Tokyo (love this guy's work):

Cherry Blossom time in Tokyo!

This videographer's work is always top-quality; I love how he takes you through the neighborhoods just as you would as a tourist.

Cherry-blossom viewing in Shinjuku, Tokyo

Here in Minnesota we are still knee-deep in snow, with the real start of Spring still weeks away. Videos like this give me hope that warm weather and the return of life to our northern tundra will actually happen!

My Japan-inspired garden

This year we bought a house in the heart of the Twin Cities and moved in from an outer-ring suburb, primarily to be closer to our daughter's Chinese immersion school - and to cut the exhaustive commute my wife and I were burdened with.

With various projects needing to be done with the property, we had neither the time nor spare cash to take a trip to Asia this summer. However, we know travel works two ways - going out to explore the world, and reflecting in to apply what you've learned...

Our design tastes lean both Scandinavian and Asian ("Scandinasian" I call it), and we try to subtly incorporate pieces of Asian culture into our everyday lives to help our daughter grow up to be someone who can easily work in Eastern and Western societies. So we'd kicked around ideas of what someday we'd like to do with our nice fenced backyard (once we'd gotten the invasive buckthorn and half-dead yet overgrown shrubs ripped out) and we both thought a "Zen Garden" would make sense somewhere.

July was brutally hot in Minneapolis this year so not much happened with garden projects, but then fate intervened, as my mother wanted to divide her hostas.  I ended up with about 50 plants to transplant into my yard, and no plan...

Here's the corner (under the big pine tree on the left) where I'd end up placing most of those hostas. The area was already heavily mulched and pretty acidic due to all the pine needles that had fallen over the years.

The grass kind of stopped growing under the pine tree, so that's where I started putting hostas in, and it ended up forming a nice straight line.

Inspiration from travel

Once I'd committed to making something out of that corner in the yard after planting all those perennials, I figured I'd need more of a plan ... inspiration at least to improvise.  And as I scanned through our travel photo files, I found that inspiration in our trip to Tokyo in June 2009:

The Meiji Jingu shrine, next to Harajuku, is an immense stretch of forest and temples - all completely rebuilt after WWII.  This was a royal getaway, but today used for all sorts of public activities. A vast oasis of calm, shade, and restfulness surrounded by skyscrapers, trains, and highways - but when inside you don't notice the outside world at all. No flashy colors or heaps of colorful flowers here - just wood, stone, shadows and light, and all sorts of green.

The roadways are a thick layer of gravel that is sturdy yet giving; it makes you walk a little more slowly and concentrate on what you are doing and feeling. The paths are maintained by monks who you'll see carefully sweeping leaves and pine needles.

In the center of the complex is the main shrine area, with lovely trees and  cut-stone pavers.  We visited early on a weekday and had the whole complex largely to ourselves - a nice effect of jetlag in a city that likes to get started a little later in the morning.

We also visited the gardens next to the Imperial Palace,  which are also very large and right next to downtown Tokyo. They limit the number of people who can be inside at any given time, but again we arrived early and had no trouble. There's more of a "classical" feel to this place than Meiji Jingu, with dedicated flower beds and a carefully managed calendar of blooms. (Which we completely missed.)

The canopy over this part of the path not only gives some shelter from rain and hot sun, but it also frames up a "borrowed view" to the pond as well as the shrubbery and flowers beyond.

Even without seeing these beds in full bloom, it was still amazing to look at all the different textures and shapes of the plants.  Again, stone and green colors in all their shades were the dominant colors

A big swathe of river rock creates visual interest to this pond scene - in a usual garden there'd be vegetation right up to the edge, but here they're trying to evoke the way that mountain streams can change course in a valley and leave berms of pebbles.

The paths in the Imperial Garden are hard-surfaced, but with pea gravel as part of the mixture, which gives a similar look to the paths in Meiji Jingu.

So lessons learned from Tokyo that I could apply to this project:

• There don't HAVE to be masses of flowers blooming every day. It makes you look more at the leaves and other structures of the plants and notice the conversation they have with the scene around them.
• Large groupings of one kind of plant are preferable to a little bit of this, a little bit of that.
• The borders and pathways are just as important as what's inside them.
• Think about all the senses a visitor will use in the garden - the texture of the ground beneath them, the sounds around them, not just sights and smells.
• Colors - green, brown, and stone can be very pleasing ... and with pines and yews on our lot, give year-round interest.
• "Borrowed space" - making a small garden much bigger

 Getting to work

I spent most of August pulling weeds and leveling out the ground where the walking path would go. Multiple trips to the home-improvement stores were made (a stop at Lowe's for bullet edgers became our "Saturday date night"...)

Fieldstones already on our property serve as visual markers for the main approach.

The path works behind the hostas and through the mulch area.  I planted yews along the back fence for color and texture - and so I don't have to look at the fence in a few years.  The pathway is leveled dirt, with a layer of sand over it, then landscape fabric. Bullet edgers along each side hold in about 3" of pea gravel.

The existing pine needles and chips blend in nicely with the mulch I've applied around the hostas.

Last week I finally completed the gravel pathway - and planted about 100 Japanese Iris bulbs, plus a couple dozen Asiatic lilies and tulips, and transplanted a trunkload of sedum from my mom's place.  This area used to be farmland, and the soil looks pretty rich!

Our dog approves of my work. So do the honeybees from the University of Minnesota nearby.

Detail on the pea gravel and pavers

Like at Meiji Jingu, there's texture and visual interest even in shadow. Plus, using the view into the yard to expand the perceived size of the garden.

 Enjoying the view, and continuing to work

The space under the pine tree is sheltered from the sun - and I hope the snow in winter as well. It is also perfectly situated to watch fireworks from the Minnesota State Fair, just a few blocks south of us:

Flowers of a different kind!

How's this for "borrowed space"?

We ordered up a pallet of bullet edgers, and they were delivered Tuesday. I've laid out how they'll divide the garden area from the lawn ... still need to put them in...

Hosta flowers in bloom give a nice purple accent and complement the pink-purple of the sedum at this time of year.

I'm looking forward to installing a stone bench under the tree here and stringing up lights for the long dark nights to come. What a peaceful space here in the heart of the Twin Cities.

Book Review: Tokyo on Foot by Florent Chavouet

This unique presentation of one foreigner’s exploration of the world’s largest city over six months was never intended to be a guidebook: no star ratings for luxe hotels or interviews with celebrity chefs here - and wasn’t supposed to be a social commentary: don’t look here for studies on gender roles or the Occupy Movement. But a guidebook (of sorts) is what this simple artist’s sketchbook has become; one filled with the (usually humorous) views and comments about everyday life and ordinary buildings around the various districts of central Tokyo.

Florent’s district maps may be easier to use than the ones in the Frommer’s guidebook - and clearly show the most important places for family travelers, like good supermarkets and convenience stores and coffee shops; the photogenic spots and nice parks and walking-path shortcuts. 

Tokyo is not called a beautiful city (except perhaps at night, from a high building, when you can soak in the lights) - but Florent’s colored-pencil sketches give individual personality to even the most ordinary row house or storefront. And his cartoon drawings of shopkeepers, commuters, students, and local police - while, well, simple cartoons, still move past stereotypes and cliches to reveal humanity and show you details you might not ordinarily notice from the tour bus or running through the airport. (Mr. Chavouet’s blog - in French - continues his studies.)

When our family travels we like to use public transport and walk around, eat simply and try to experience parts of everyday life in the cities we visit. The flowers poking up in an alleyway are no less beautiful than the ones in the Imperial gardens, after all. This book brings back nostalgia we have for our time in Japan - and gives us ideas for our next trip.

Whether you’ve been to Tokyo already or are looking for ideas for a future stopover trip, this book lovingly shows the real side of the city, and is great entertainment.




For more media, product, and service reviews about traveling through and learning about Asian culture, please visit http://www.weninchina.com/Reviews/Reviews/Reviews.html

Our Tokyo article links:

• Narita Airport Guide: http://www.weninchina.com/Airports/Tokyo_NRT.html
• Tokyo Stopover: http://www.weninchina.com/Travel/Tokyo_Stopover.html

JAL chooses to stay in oneworld; adoption travel choices through Japan still poor

In previous postings I'd discussed the changing landscape of US-Japan air service and how new possibilities for China adoption travel might come about. With the bankruptcy and re-organization of Japan Airlines, speculation was strong for a tie-up with Delta and the SkyTeam alliance, which might have been very interesting for new service between Guangzhou and North America.


However, this scenario will not be happening, as JAL has decided to stay in its current partnership with American Airlines and the oneworld alliance. JAL and American intend to form a joint venture to plan and market their Transpacific services. But JAL's bankruptcy recovery plan calls for sharply reducing international service, and American flies to Tokyo from only a handful of U.S. cities. 


Therefore I don't foresee the JAL-AA combination offering much new competition - whether in new city-pair connections, or through permanently reduced fares - anytime soon between the U.S. and China.

JAL files for bankruptcy: impact on China adoption travel?

This week's widely-anticipated announcement of Japan Airlines' bankruptcy and restructuring does not have much immediate impact for adoption travel:

• JAL services to China have been largely positioned for the local market, shuttling business travelers to the primary Chinese cities (with most of the seats to just Beijing and Shanghai,) plus some short-haul leisure routes to places like Dalian.
• Services out of Guangzhou do not connect to the North American flights leaving Tokyo - whether on JAL or its current oneworld alliance partner American Airlines. Remember, your child's Chinese passport prohibits her from leaving the airport security zone, so an overnight stay in Tokyo on the way home is out of the question. 
• JAL did not offer "adoption fares", and so have priced themselves out of consideration for the short-notice travel that these families require.

There is speculation that after JAL has restructured, the airline may switch alliances and join the SkyTeam grouping. There are several good reasons why this may happen:

• American Airlines does not offer many flights to Tokyo - with its own aircraft, AA serves Los Angeles once daily, New York JFK once daily, Chicago O'hare once daily, and Dallas/Ft. Worth twice daily; and does not directly serve any other Japanese cities.
• The main Asian partner in oneworld is Cathay Pacific, based in Hong Kong, and it basically flies to the same places that JAL flies. There's no need to fly from America, Australia, or Europe to Hong Kong and then connect to Japan when you could just fly straight to Japan.
• SkyTeam offers the broad network of Delta Airlines, flying to 10 US cities from Tokyo. Delta also has rights to fly local traffic from Japan to other Asian countries (a legacy of Northwest Airlines,) which American does not have. 
• SkyTeam also offers nearby Korean Air and its big 24-hour hub operation at Seoul-Incheon. Incheon is easily reached with short-haul aircraft from any Japanese city. This is appealing because Tokyo-Narita airport is short on landing slots and restricted on hours of operation. Plus, if you can schedule an extra trip with your aircraft overnight, that lets you more easily cover your fixed costs.
• Korean Air also serves more cities in China and central Asia than JAL. This would help JAL compete better for corporate travel contracts.
• JAL must also consider how it will compete against the very strong Star Alliance combination of local carrier ANA-All Nippon Airways, plus United Airlines, Continental Airlines, and Air China. United covers many US cities from Tokyo, and has rights to fly local traffic to Asian cities. Continental covers parts of the US that United doesn't, and brings its Pacific Island services to the table - very popular with Japanese leisure travelers. Finally, Air China has a strong hub operation at Beijing, easily reached with short-haul jets from Japan.

American has reportedly offered JAL over $1 billion to stay in the oneworld alliance. Delta, it is rumored, has put a similar number on the table (and its SkyTeam partners may be chipping in as well.) However, the trustees now in charge of JAL's management have said they won't make any new commitments until after they've put their restructuring into place and installed new permanent management. It may be late 2010 before we learn what they decide.

Even if JAL should join SkyTeam, that company would need to be willing to modify its business model to at least give more emphasis to connecting traffic between China / SE Asia and North America.

We will be watching closely, and will update the weninchina.com "Planning Transpacific Flights" page as your options for China travel change.

"Open Skies" for Japan; what does it mean for China adoption travel?

With announcement of the US-Japan accord to allow full air carrier access and deregulated pricing between both countries, action is already underway to reshape codeshare arrangements, joint fares and scheduling, and even possible investment in financially-troubled Japan Airlines. Tokyo's close-in Haneda Airport, which has been restricted to domestic and limited regional service, may also soon see nonstops from North America.


While this development has the potential to bring US-Japan service levels up and fares down - as we've seen between the US and Europe - what if any impact does it hold for the adoption traveler trying to get home from Guangzhou, China?


At weninchina.com, I've just updated the Planning Transpacific Flights article to reflect options available for Winter 2010. The loss of Northwest's morning nonstop from Guangzhou to Tokyo-Narita has complicated the process of selecting airlines and flights for adoption travelers to be sure, but other options have started to gel, including the growth of Beijing as a gateway for the Star Alliance carriers, and the rise of Seoul-Incheon as an excellent hub between Asia and North America.


What has surprised me in researching the available flights this season is the complete lack of connecting options out of Guangzhou to North America via Tokyo. Just one year ago this was the primary route home. Today, even though there are three daily nonstops between these two airports, none of them are timed to connect onward to ANY flights to the US mainland or Canada.


If the United-Continental-All Nippon (ANA) transpacific joint venture is approved, what I'd like to see right away is for the 9:15 am All Nippon departure from Guangzhou to Tokyo moved up by two hours. This would allow that flight to easily connect to the entire eastbound bank of United, Continental, and Air Canada departures. (The aircraft which flies this route sits overnight at the gate in Guangzhou, so it's not going to be too much of a hassle.) This one step would restore virtually all of the same-day two-connection possibilities between Guangzhou and North America that were lost when Northwest pulled out in February 2009.


ANA has stated they want big growth in 2010 from international service and alliance opportunities. Sounds like this would be an easy first step, and would make life a lot easier for hundreds of families.

Three New Articles at weninchina.com

A new crop of columns is now posted at our main site, weninchina.com. First, read our suggestions about what kinds of food you should bring along on your adoption trip. Next, learn a bit more about some of the exotic tropical fruits that may end up on your plate. Finally, for families waiting for their travel date, a quick introduction to blogging and why you should consider doing it.

Several more articles are in the pipeline for this season, including thoughts about how to relieve the anxiety of giving gifts to government officials, the logistics of car seats, a new climate map with clothing suggestions, and a call for readers to send in their favorite new foods (or those they'd warn other families about.)

The weninchina team will be on the road in Tokyo the first week of July, taking advantage of the cheap airfares and looking for family fun. We'll post from Japan, and gather resource material for a more-in-depth full article on the main site. (Tokyo travel tips, must-see locations, must-try places?  Email us!) 

Finally, a big thank-you to the team at FWCC for kindly including us on their resource list for adopting parents. We appreciate the vote of confidence.

Transpacific Air Travel Options: ANA-All Nippon

With Northwest Airlines pulling out of Guangzhou in March 2009, there will no longer be an American-flag carrier serving the city all adopting families leave from. I have been conducting research and contacting airlines' press offices for comment and suggestions; over the next few weeks I'll discuss some of the other options available.

Let's start with the Japanese carrier ANA - All Nippon Airways. Tokyo's Narita Airport is ANA's home base, which means no hassles regarding your new child's Chinese passport. ANA is a member of the Star Alliance, so earning miles on your United frequent flyer account is straightforward. And ANA serves a number of destinations in China, most importantly Guangzhou. ANA, not surprisingly for an Asian carrier, has a good reputation for service, and as an English-speaker, you will not have any problems.

When you look at the ANA timetable, however, connections out of Guangzhou back to America are slim. Only San Francisco, Los Angeles, and Honolulu can be hooked up.  From these three cities, going to China, connections can be made to Guangzhou, Shanghai, and Beijing (except for L.A., which arrives too late to make the Beijing flight.) Click on the map below for an expanded view:

I ran airfares on a typical short-notice adoption routing: leaving San Francisco March 4 to Beijing, returning from Guangzhou on March 19. The total trip came to about $1600 per person. If you want to book a third seat coming back from China (which we highly recommend), expect to pay around $900 for the one-way. You'll have to call their reservations desk, as you cannot book a one-way ticket from China to the USA over their website.

The spokesman I've dealt with confirms that ANA does not offer special fares for adopting families. When you do get your placement date, you'll be paying the higher no-advance-notice fare.  With the current economic crisis, even the short-notice fares aren't too bad, but these do tend to go up in the summer months. And when the economy does get stronger again, prices will get even steeper.

The limited connections available with this carrier also mean you will have to spend at least one more night inbound to China - while a Beijing stopover is a great idea to help you with jetlag, and to see the sights before Placement Day, if you are trying to economize by flying directly to your child's provincial capital, ANA is not going to be your first choice.

Contact information:

Phone: 1-800-2-FLY-ANA (US 50 and Canada)

Web: www.anaskyweb.com/us/e

NWA/Delta merger: One thing you won't see for much longer

With the Spring 2009 schedule, Delta has announced it will stop the Saturday-only "extra" flight between Minneapolis and Tokyo-Narita, leaving the route with just one daily nonstop. This will mean MSP will no longer see two 747-400 aircraft simultaneously at its gates.

Over the next few weeks I'll explore how much more difficult it is becoming for adoptive families to make their China trip. 2009 was supposed to have been a year that saw unprecedented expansion of flights between the USA and PRC; instead carriers have cut back existing services and deferred - indefinitely - serving the new authorities they so fiercely sought just a year ago.

New postings at weninchina.com

We continue to add features to help families plan for their trips to China. Our new postings in the past month include:

• Connecting through Tokyo's Narita Airport
• Suggestions for physical training before your journey
• Practical advice about crossing the street in China
• A brief history / photo essay about Guangzhou's Shamian Island, plus a printable map to use during your visit.

weninchina.com now offers 35 entries about the family travel experience, in the areas of lodging, food, travel / tourism, money / shopping, safety / health, and people / culture. Our site also presents helpful tools including weather forecasts, currency calculators, and a wealth of links to travel and cultural resources.